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Platinum vs White Gold

What metal type do you recommend?

We always recommend our 950 Platinum-Ruthenium alloy. It's the best metal for engagement rings and wedding bands.

Platinum Pros and Cons

The most important characteristic in Platinum jewelry is its resistance to metal loss caused by abrasion. Platinum is durable and has a high wear resistance. This is mostly due to its density relative to other metals as Platinum items have molecules that are packed much tighter within the same volume. When a metal is rubbed against or comes in contact with another object, a little bit of that metal is rubbing off. If the metal is Platinum, the amount lost is minimal as the abrasion tends to displace the metal, keeping it intact (albeit deformed at the micro level). This translates into Platinum rings lasting two or three times longer than their gold counterpart. Platinum's toughness allows it to absorb energy and deform without wearing away.

Our 950 Platinum-Ruthenium blend is the best Platinum alloy for jewelry. It has the best combination of tensile strength and hardness amongst all Platinum blends. These traits help keep the metal structure in shape and allow the durability of Platinum to sustain when being worn.

More common alloys like 950 Platinum-Iridium are softer and tend to scratch and bend much easier. Manufacturers typically use this blend because it's easy to cast and work with, leading to lower costs and less specialization in their processes. Some bench jewelers have an unfavorable opinion of Platinum as their only experience are the repeating problems that arise when the incorrect alloy is used. We strongly recommend to avoid making your engagement ring or wedding band in this blend as it will lead to irreparable issues.

Our 950 Platinum-Ruthenium doesn't have these problems. We purposely use a stronger alloy so you can enjoy your rings for a lifetime. Further technical information regarding Platinum alloys for jewelry can be downloaded here:

Pros

  • Extremely Durable - Lasts a Lifetime
  • Naturally White - No Rhodium Plating
  • Denser Metal - Holds Stones Better
  • Uses 100% Precious Metal
  • Hypoallergenic - No Allergies
  • Very Inert Metal - Resists Corrosion and Weakening

Cons

  • Cost - More Expensive than White Gold
  • Scratches easier on large polished surfaces

White Gold Pros and Cons

Our white gold is blended with a nickel alloy. Nickel gives white gold its whitish color and helps increases the hardness of the metal. While nickel helps in whitening white gold, it doesn't completely make it white. Our alloy does require Rhodium plating every six months.

We also work in 18k White Gold. This alloy has more precious gold and is a little heavier than 14k White Gold. The natural color is very comparable to 14k and does require Rhodium plating.

All of our white metal jewelry will look virtually identical when they are brand new. After several months of wear, a white gold ring may need to be Rhodium plated to be completely white again. After a decade or two, a white gold ring will probably require repair work around prongs, channels, and at the bottom of the ring. Platinum wears away at a much lesser rate than white gold and it is not uncommon for Platinum to last a lifetime.

Pros

  • Less Expensive than Platinum
  • Harder to Scratch
  • Easy to Size

Cons

  • Not as Durable as Platinum
  • Not White - Requires Rhodium Plating
  • Possible Allergic Reactions
  • Negative Reactions with Chlorine

Yellow Gold Pros and Cons

We work in both 14k and 18k Yellow Gold. These alloys are softer than their white counterparts. Rings made in yellow gold are more prone to wear and tear than white metals.

Pros

  • Less Expensive than Platinum
  • Easiest to Size

Cons

  • Not as Durable as White Gold

Rose Gold Pros and Cons

We work in only 14k Rose Gold as the 18k alloy has brittleness issues. This alloy is the softest of all the gold and platinum metals. Rings made in rose gold are more prone to wear and tear than yellow and white metals.

Pros

  • Less Expensive than Platinum
  • Easy to Size

Cons

  • Not as Durable as White Gold

Cost Comparison: Platinum versus White Gold

Platinum is about 1.6 times heavier than White Gold. Comparing two identical rings, one in White Gold and one in Platinum, the Platinum one is automatically 1.6 times more expensive. Platinum also has more pure precious metal than White Gold. Our Platinum alloy is 95% pure platinum compared to our 14k and 18k White Gold alloys which are 58% and 75% pure gold.

Due primarily to the density of Platinum, it is much more difficult to achieve a perfectly polished finished surface. Therefore, it takes much more labor to produce a Platinum ring over an identical White Gold piece.

Platinum is at least twice as expensive and can at times be 3-4 times as expensive as a White Gold ring. The exact amount is based on many variables.

Crown and Prong Metal Type

Because Platinum is renowned for it's durability, we highly recommend having the crown or prongs of your ring made in Platinum. This will help protect your diamonds and gemstones longer than Gold.